back to the Dollhouse Workshop
  • Glue just-below the guideline and down the back-edge; I am using hot-melt glue for this shingle job.  I might use solvent-based construction cement instead.  A word of caution about hot-melt glue: the learning process for hot-melt always involves burns and lost skin.  If you're not already a hot-melt user, stick with panel cement
    950_dormer_2...
  • Lining up the Shingles with the Guideline
    950_dormer_2...
  • The second line starts with a half-shingle
    950_dormer_2...
  • Splitting a shingle for a "half-shingle".  I looked at the grain to choose one that would split straight
    950_dormer_2...
  • On up the side... every course of shingles is glued at the back edge so the shingles there can stand the trimming process
    950_dormer_2...
  • When I touch a shingle to the glue, it is a little high so I will draw the shingle down spreading the glue as the top comes to the Guideline.  This technique reduces the squeezings that come up between the shingles
    950_dormer_2...
  • I have run out of guidelines to show me where to put the shingles.  I am measuring 1" from the bottom of the course to draw a "bottom-guideline"
    950_dormer_2...
  • the shingles are well glued to the wall
    950_dormer_2...
  • A new "bottom Guideline"
    950_dormer_2...
  • And then short shingles for the top-top course
    950_dormer_2...
  • Gluing right up to the edge is important so the shingles don't fall apart when the top edge is trimmed
    950_dormer_3...
  • Following the bottom guideline
    950_dormer_3...