back to the Dollhouse Workshop
  • This is where the new stairhole will go.  I need to know what size is needed, and where it will go.  Consider the floorplan at the top and bottom of the stairs, how far out the stairs will run at the bottom, and whether there is a headroom issue at the top.
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  • I am using a furniture scraper as a straight-edge and square for the gentle first-cut.  This is the "straight cut".
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  • Many gentle cuts make the cut deep without any risk of slipping (messy and dangerous!).  My favorite tool for this job is a utility knife, but I am doing this demo with a craft knife to show the "many gentle cuts" rule
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  • Now a "clearing cut" on the waste side of the straight cut.
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  • The clearing cut is at an angle to free up a ribbon of material so the knife is not being squeezed from the sides as it goes deeper-and-deeper
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  • Make a cut on the end so it doesn't tear past the corner
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  • Remove the waste piece
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  • Make the first cut straight up-and-down, and straight on the line.  Use a metal straight-edge so the first cut doesn't wobble.
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  • The clearing-cut angles toward the straight-cut, and is on the waste side.
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  • Cut the corners with a chopping action like a paper-cutter, first along one line, then along the other.  It reduces the chance of cutting past the corner
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  • Work the corners down separately from the lines
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  • Now the third side
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  • and a clearing stroke
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  • Working along a wall is the hardest side of a stair hole.  It may be easier to work a bit out from the wall then carve the hole closer to the wall in the end.
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  • Working the corner down.
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  • More straight-cuts, more clearing-cuts... carving deeper with each pass
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  • The last side.  My first cut is straight and follows a straight edge.  I almost decided to cut the craft knife shorter for working under the slanted roof (a utility knife is shorter)
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  • Working the cuts deeper
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  • Working the corners deeper...
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  • a little at a time...
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