back to the Dollhouse Workshop
  • Masking tape protects the floor.  I also put thin strips of masking tape centered between the Bathroom tracing lines
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  • First coat:  I'm using primer but regular latex would work too... Primer is just a little easier to sand
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  • The paint is dry.  I am getting ready to spackle the taperuns.  "Lite Spackle" and my plastic library card
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  • Thick coats won't go on smooth.  You can do many thin coats or a thick coat, lightly scraped when it's dry, then one or two skim coats.
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  • Diagonal strokes in each direction over each junction
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  • After it's dry (a few hours), a light sanding with 320 grit.  Don't take off too much... then another thin skim-coat.
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  • A second coat, this time latex paint
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  • I can see it will need at least one  more coat of paint... light sanding between coats
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  • I can't easily notice the ceiling run, even with the direct horizontal light in this shot - but I can easily see the wall runs.  This photo is of one skim-coat of spackle and two top-coats of paint.
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  • I am assured that, in a dollhouse loaded with miniatures, the taperuns are un-noticeable and this level of visibility makes finding them easy when you need to.
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  • I'll re-do the wall with more spackle - a thick coat of spackle on the whole wall this time... then a smoothing skim-coat.  Meanwhile, I'll do another room using liner paper to smooth the walls instead of spackle
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  • Here's what we're covering - the same wire-runs as the 'spackle' room... at the end, we'll compare how long it took and how well it covers.
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  • "Liner Paper" is a paint-and-wallpaper-store supply - designed just for covering un-even walls. I also have pre-mixed 'methylcellulose' wallpaper paste, a foam brush (and a plastic bag so the brush doesn't dry out), a sponge, and some water.
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  • I am cutting pieces just-shorter than the floor-to-ceiling
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  • A sharp craft or utility knife, a metal straight-edge, and a cutting-board
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  • Marking the front-to-back cut to make it exactly fit the wall
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  • Paste on the paper - don't be stingy.  The paste must still be wet in the time it takes to put paste on the wall...
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  • ... then paste on the wall.  'Paper first, then the wall' allows the paper to 'size' or swell from the water in the paste before it is laid on the wall.  This helps keep the paper from wrinkling
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  • Spread the paste - it needs to get all the way into the corners.  The damp sponge and a dry towel will clean up the corners after the paper is on.
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  • Start in the corner, touching-down just the edge
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